Tecumseh Hermetic Compressor FAQ: Air Filter 33268, 16x20x1, Dewalt Leaf Blower, and Freezer Not Freezing

I’m the procurement manager for a 45-person refrigeration parts distributor. For the last seven years I’ve managed our replacement component budget—roughly $240,000 a year—tracked every order, and sent back more than a few compressors. I’ve also bought the cheap option more than once. If you’re searching for a Tecumseh hermetic compressor, a Tecumseh air filter 33268, or just wondering ‘why is my freezer not freezing?’, this is the FAQ I wish I had before writing POs.

The Questions I Actually Get

• Why is my freezer not freezing?
• Is the Tecumseh air filter 33268 the same as a 16x20x1 air filter?
• Is the cheapest Tecumseh hermetic compressor actually cheaper?
• Can I use a Dewalt leaf blower to clean a condenser coil?
• How do I cross-reference a replacement compressor?
• What’s the most underrated cause of compressor failure?
• Should I buy a used Tecumseh hermetic compressor?

1. Why is my freezer not freezing?

Check the simple things first. A freezer that sits at 18°F instead of 0°F is often not a compressor problem. Per U.S. Department of Agriculture food safety guidance (FoodSafety.gov), a freezer should be kept at 0°F (-18°C). A freezer at 18°F is a complaint. A compressor that won’t start is a diagnosis. Don’t assume they’re the same thing.

• Is the condenser coil packed with dust or pet hair?
• Is the evaporator fan spinning? If it’s frozen under a sheet of ice, you have a defrost problem, not a compressor problem.
• Is the return air filter clogged? A dirty 16x20x1 air filter can starve a system.
• Are the start components weak? A $20 run capacitor can stop a Tecumseh hermetic compressor from starting.

Here’s how I look at it: a compressor is the last thing to replace, not the first. The technicians who fixed this by replacing a $12 filter and a $45 fan blade saved their customers $700 in labor. The ones who skipped straight to the compressor created a second callback. Usually not the compressor.

2. Is the Tecumseh air filter 33268 the same as a 16x20x1 air filter?

No. The Tecumseh air filter 33268 is a factory replacement element for specific Tecumseh air-cooled condensing units. It’s a part number, not a generic size. A 16x20x1 air filter is a standard return-air filter for HVAC systems. They can look similar, but they’re not automatically interchangeable.

The risk isn’t the filter media. It’s the frame and gasket. A 16x20x1 that’s too thick can block the access panel and reduce airflow. A generic filter with a different MERV rating can raise pressure drop. That’s not a $12 problem; that’s a high-head-pressure problem.

Before you order, read the model and serial number on the condensing unit, and check Tecumseh’s cross-reference. If the application calls for the 33268, pay attention to the dimensions. When I price-checked three authorized distributors in March 2025, the 33268 was in the $20-$35 range. Cheap enough that cutting down a 16x20x1 to save ten bucks is not worth the gamble.

3. Is a cheap Tecumseh hermetic compressor actually cheaper?

No. This is the question I hear every week. ‘Can I get the cheap one?’ Yes, you can. I’ve bought the cheap one. That’s exactly how I learned to calculate total cost, not just price.

Two years ago, we compared a rebuilt quote at $340 and an authorized Tecumseh hermetic compressor at $520. I chose the $340 to save $180. Bad math. The unit failed at 90 days. We paid $85 freight, $260 labor for the first install, then $420 labor and freight to remove and replace the failure. Final cost: over $1,100. If we had bought the $520 compressor first, we’d have been around $640 all-in. That’s almost a $500 difference.

When I audited our 2024 compressor purchases, the lowest-priced quote was the right call in 4 out of 10 cases. In the other 6, we ate freight, labor, or return fees. So now my procurement policy is simple: get three quotes, check the warranty, and ask for test data. Per FTC advertising guidelines (ftc.gov), performance claims need to be substantiated. If a supplier says ‘same specs as OEM’ and gives you nothing in writing, that’s a red flag.

4. Can I use a Dewalt leaf blower to clean a condenser coil?

You can, but that doesn’t mean you should. The problem isn’t the Dewalt leaf blower. The problem is what happens to a dirty coil when you blow high-volume air from the outside in.

Cottonwood fuzz and dust get packed deeper into the fins. Bent fins block airflow even more. If you blow a matted coil backwards, you can turn a temporary cleaning into a long-term failure. Seen it happen.

If you have no other option, blow from the inside out, and do it before the coil is packed. Then follow up with a fin comb and a proper coil cleaner. A $120 leaf blower is not a substitute for a $15 fin comb. Is it a no-brainer to keep the Dewalt in the van for cleaning shop floors? Yes. Just don’t let it be your compressor protection plan.

5. How do I cross-reference a Tecumseh compressor without guessing?

Start with the serial plate, not the model you think it should be. A Tecumseh hermetic compressor is designed for specific voltage, frequency, load, refrigerant, and application. If you only match horsepower, you’re guessing.

Compare these numbers: RLA, LRA, voltage, refrigerant, capacitor size, mounting, suction and discharge orientation, and capacity rating. Per AHRI Standard 540, compressor ratings are only meaningful when they say which rating conditions were used. A vendor that can’t tell you the rating conditions doesn’t understand the product.

I also look at the warranty. A cheap ‘will fit’ unit with a 30-day warranty is not the same as a factory replacement with a year of support. That warranty is part of the total cost. If the numbers line up and the warranty is real, it can be a solid value. If the vendor says ‘trust me,’ that’s a deal-breaker. I’d rather wait two days for the right part than install a guess today.

6. What’s the most underrated cause of compressor failure?

Airflow. Not the compressor itself. We didn’t have a formal airflow verification process until the third compressor failure taught us to make one.

Here’s what happened: first compressor failure, we changed the compressor and didn’t ask why. Second compressor failure, same unit, same lack of airflow. We finally checked the filter and the condenser fan. The surprise wasn’t the compressor. The surprise was a $12 filter and a $45 fan blade killing $600 compressors. That’s the penny-wise, pound-foolish trap in reverse.

Now, before any compressor order, one of our techs has to check static pressure, filter condition, coil cleanliness, and fan amperage. Since we added that checklist, compressor callbacks are down. Not because the parts are better. Because we stop killing good parts with bad airflow. A warranty covers the part, not the labor.

Bottom line: a 16x20x1 air filter is cheap. A compressor is not. Change the filter, clean the coil, and let the compressor do its job.

7. Should I buy a used Tecumseh hermetic compressor?

If you’re a homeowner trying to save a freezer, I understand. If you’re a business, I’d rather not. A used compressor is a used compressor. You don’t know its run history, whether it ran with a refrigerant leak, or whether the oil is acidic. The compressor itself may look fine. The inside is the question.

People do buy used Tecumseh hermetic compressors and they sometimes work. But when they don’t, you’re paying labor twice. The markup from used to new or factory reman is often less than one hour of shop labor. That math doesn’t work for me.

If budget is truly tight, buy from a source that can show you a load test and gives a warranty. If they can’t document the compressor’s performance, walk away. Paying $200 for a used part that costs $500 to install is not saving money. It’s playing roulette.